How many sleeps?

Giving that we live in absolutely massive city we hadn’t really planned to stop it in Phnom Phen. It was a 6 hour drive from Siem Reap and apart from lunch at a very nice rest stop the journey was pretty uneventful.

The destination though was an unexpected delight. We had decided to pay a little more and stay at the lonely planet recommend Kabaki hotel. It was beautiful from the grounds to the rooms and pool.

Even more expected was how much we liked the little amount we saw of phnom Phen. I wish we had actually planned to have more time there. All the streets around the hotel were lined with trees and had a rather shabby cheic feel to the them. Little boutique shops and chilled coffee shops made it an enjoyable area to wander.

We didn’t really venture far and spent a lot of time chilling in the pool and coffee shops. Our main mission for our day in Phomn Phen was to find a birthday present for Middle Man. For the last 2 weeks his first question has been how many sleeps? A count down to his birthday.

I can’t believe he is turn 6! He has grown up so much over the last year! Now longer a little boy but instead a outgoing, incredibly independent. He is totally obsessed with gymnastics, climbing, and hanging upside down.

So from now on I am going to rename him Monkey Man. And while I am at it I’m going to drop the Baby from Baby Blue and refer to him as Boy Blue (he is most definitely not a Baby). Lego boy is still obsessed with Lego so no name changes there.

Anyway back to the story….

With a mental promise to myself to return and explore further we left the capital of Cambodia back into the country side aiming for Kampot.

Given that this was the boys (and my dads bad back’s) second longish road trip in not many days we decided to break up the journey with a stop at Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre. It is a place that seems to be doing good for Cambodia’s dwindling wildlife but it does feel more like a zoo so might not be for everyone.

We saw sun bears, tigers and elephants that have been rescued from horrific situations (documented on their enclosures). The boys particularly enjoyed seeing the slightly sloth like bears which are now practically impossible to see in the wild.

We had hoped to have lunch their but there didn’t appear anywhere suitable for the kids or dads back so we pushed onto Kampot.

We had read about serve flooding in the area and weren’t sure what we would find. The road definitely showed signs of flood damage as we approach and for the final stretch to our accommodation we had to take an detour avoiding an impassable road. The road we did take was still increadabily muddy and sent my mind back to our local roads in the rainy season of Solwezi. If I hadn’t spent time driving roads like this before I would have also assumed our detour was unpasable.

Our accommodation (Gecko Village) had obviously also been flooded, although no longer underwater the pool was empty and sand and pebble path ways had been displaced. When we checked in our host explained that not even two days pevoiusly the whole place had been about a foot underwater. To be honest it was amazing it was so together. Our rooms were good size, clean and had the most amazing views or river and mountains. During our stay there were a few issues with electricity (probably caused by the flood) meaning WiFi and more importantly fans and hot showers were unreliable but the staff were friendly and helpful.

Day 1 in Kampot we had a mooch around the town, which is a mish mash of run down old French colonial style buildings offering a wide variety of food outlets, tourist trips and souvenir shops. We ate pizza sheltering from the rain on busy street corner watching the town buzz past. In return to our accommodation we found the pool refilled and the sun shining so it would have been rude not to take advantage.

Day 2 was more action packed. The husband was complaining that we he felt he needed to do something more active after a few days of sitting around on buses or pool side I had to agree. We booked a driver for the day and aimed to cover as many of the areas highlights as possible.

First stop a very friendly pepper farm. While we learned the difference and labour intensive processes involved in making red, green, white and black pepper, the boys played with the farm owners children and their toys. I was dubious about this stop thinking it might be tourist money grab but it most definitely was not! They were passionate about pepper and it been made organically and environmentally friendly. There was no entrance fee or tour charge, we had a knowledgable private guide who showed us the plants, solar powered drying rooms and manual sorting processes. She let us taste different types and explained why Kampot pepper is the best in the world because of the rocks in the soil. She didn’t once push any of the products on sale or as for a donation. We could have left without spending a penny but we of course tipped our guide and were pleased to buy some pepper in a environmentally friendly bamboo pot.

Our 2nd stop was Kep National Park. I was needlessly worried the 8km route would be too much for the boys, they smashed it without so much as a whinge. A clear route lead us around the hill top rewarding us with expansive views over Kampot bay and the area. And husband was right it was great to be active again.

At the end of the route the driver wasn’t there. Pleased we had got his business card we walked off in what looked like civerlization in search of drinks and WiFi. What we found initially was slightly worst for wear deserted promenade.

The only life we found for about 1k!

Along it were buildings which looked like they were never finished and left to rot like they never would be. A strange place which looked like it once did have money but was rapidly abandoned. We followed it for a few minutes until we found what looked a very out of place massive swimming pool sparkleing in the sunlight. Next to it in contrast was shabby cafe which contrary to its look was actually open. They didn’t have WiFi but did have drinks and a lady kindly called our driver and told him where we were.

With the last few rays of sunshine we headed to our last stop Kep Beach and enjoyed a play in a rather rough sea.

Day 3 was apparently my turn to do a zip line. I thought I had dodged this bullet at Siem Reap but no Kampot also has a Zip Line and with Boy Blue keen to stay Nan Nan and Pom Pom I had no excuse. My last hope was that Monkey Man would not be allowed to do it but unfortunately for me, fortunately fo him they deemed him near enough the 120cm height restriction.

Now if you don’t already know or haven’t already guessed let me make it clear I don’t like heights! I am generally quite outgoing and adventurous perfectly happy surfing, scuba diving, mountain biking, skiing etc but being more than a few meters of the ground I am not comftable at all. I am happy to go over jumps on a skateboard or bike, happy to throw myself down reducually steep slopes on a bike or snowboard but ask me to climb a high structure particularly human made I will turn white and probably freeze up. I also most did coming down steps at Angkor wat. I won’t even go on the small balcony in our apartment in Shanghai because it’s 9 stories up.

Sooo… climbing up swaying ladders and traversing swinging platforms to the top of the tree and start of the zip line was dam right terrifying. On a couple of occasions I felt like the fear was going to take over and the only thing that stopped it was knowing my boys were watching me. Monkey Man lived up to his new name a flew up the structure showing absolutely no fear and grinning from ear to ear. Lego boy showed in my opinion a more normal and sensible amount of fear but nevertheless climbed the structure with relative ease and only a couple glances back at me for reassurance. I tried but I’m sure failed to smile back reassuringly. The final part of the assent was a vertical rope ladder. I could hear the boys and husband questioning if I was ok. With no voice to reply I pushed on up. Climbing through the hole of the platform I sat with back to the tree and eyes shut trying to came the panic inside. By the time I had regained a small amount of control my husband was already clipped onto the zip line. Clearly waiting for some kind of signal from me that was ok I nodded and stood up. Seconds later he was flying away down to the other side of the bank. Monkey man eagerly jumping up and down was clipped on next. His feet didn’t even reach the platform! Grinning like a Cheshire Cat he was swung backwards and forwards 1… 2…. (wait for a boat to pass) …oooo….. 3 and he was gone! His high pitches giggle fading into the distance. On the other side you could just see the man catching us having to jump to reach monkey mans foot before just in time before he started to return. Next Lego boy again who had to be lifted on but his extra height and weight meant his tiptoes could reach the platform. A nervous glance at me the a determined look forward … 1… 2… 3…. And zip he was gone too!

Now it was my turn! Ekkkk… I had two choices… navigate the horrific journey I just did but in reverse or stand frozen to the spot while I was clipped on. Not really a choice I guess! 1… 2… 3…. push! I’m pretty sure I squealed all my way over. Only opening my eyes when I felt some grab my harness. Greatfull that I was back on dry land I was just about able to high five my now ecstatic boys! By the time we had got a boat back to the other side and climbed back in the tut tut I had just about regained my dignity (well what I had left).

Photographic evidence of my bravery will be uploaded when we get back home!

That afternoon was again spent in the pool before we headed for a sunset boat cruise. The highlight was supposed to be seeing firefly dance but although we did see a few the highlight for the boys was low bridges, which we had to lie down for! Defiantly would not be allowed in the uk!

Tomorrow we head into Vietnam! I hope the border crossing is better than our experience getting into Cambodia!

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