Daddy did you see that?

Day 2 in Battambang! We take a wander round the town and chill in a cafe for most the morning. Battambang Center is a french built area which now results in a mishmash of colonial/Cambodian feel. It’s quaint streets with balaconies full of tropical plants hint at the beauty this town would have had but Cambodia’s tough history has taken its toll leaving the town feeling run down.

Swing river side in Battambang

It does have a certain charm and even in the low season now it has a welcoming chilled vibe to it. When we visited many places were closed for the low season but there was still a good selection of coffee shops to make our morning visit worth while.

After another swim we were ready for our second trip with Dmur the tut tut driver. On today’s agenda was the bamboo train and the bat cave. I didn’t really know what to expect with either.

On the way to the bamboo train we were trying to guess why it was called the bamboo train. Did it carry bamboo? Was the track made of bamboo? Was the train made of bamboo?

It turns out the later is kind of correct but not as I was expecting. In fact the train looked nothing like a train to me. It was basically a bamboo woven platform resting on 4 wheels with a very noisy desiel engine on it.

Surly the thing couldn’t go very fast? But I was wrong it could definitely move! The boys squealed with delight as it got faster and faster shooting along the track! The wind blowing across our faces and the constant noise of the engine meant it definitely wasn’t relaxing but it definitely was fun (and for mummy worry pants a little bit terrifying).

About half way to our destination we could see another bamboo train coming towards. It was one straight bit of track with no passing places so now what. Assuming that maybe we swap trains or turn round I started gathering our belongings. The driver jumped off our as we glided to a stop and I went to do the same…. No No stay he instructed?!? Ok… the passengers of the other train were asked to jump off theirs and then the whole thing was dismantled, carried and put back together again on the other side of our train… all in a matter of seconds.

Such a simple design. First they lifted off the engine, unhooking a loose belt, then one lifted the platform off whilst another lifted the first set of wheels round. The platform was then laid on the first set of wheels and the belt looped through a whole at the same time as the other put the engine on. Finally the second set of wheels were rolled under the platform which was dropped into place at exactly the right time. A well practiced routine perfectly executed by the two drivers. The boys were just as impressed as me “daddy did you see that?” “They lifted the train daddy” (why is it always daddy?!?)

Within seconds we continued our journey. It was supposed to end at a village but the track was being repaired. We were asked if we wanted to walk the last day 50m or head back. The boys however didn’t make it any more than the 5m to the workmen fixing the track! The massive spammers, wholloping mallets and man size crowbars were way to exciting.

We spent a few minutes watching before I managed to convince them back onto the train which had already been turned around and we headed back again stopping once to let a train be lifted past us. On the way back I managed to enjoy the views of the Cambodian paddy fields and countryside scenery.

Yes it was just a ride, maybe 30min ride up and back the same but of a track… possibly not everyone’s cup of tea but my boys enjoyed every second of it!

Next was a bit of a tut tut ride to the famous limestone outcrop Phnom Sampeau. The long drive gave my two youngest chance to nap… although how anyone can sleep on a tut tut is beyond me! One side effect of dragging our boys all over the planet is their ability to sleep anywhere!

As well as being famous for its display of bats the outcrop is know for much darker side. The killing caves were our first stop. It’s now a memorial site for those that were killed during the Khamr Rouge.

As you climb up towards the cave you are greeted with fabulous views which contrast greatly with the grousem statues depicting forms of torture and death.

Inside the cave itself you a presented with a memorial of human skulls piled high at one end, a reclining Buddha, and views out the top of the fatal sky door at the other end.

Most of its history was lost on the youngest two but Lego Boy was quite rightly horrified at the knowledge of how horrible humans can be to each other. It’s hard watching your children learn this lesson but unfortunately we can’t protect them forever. Of course as a mother I question, is he to young? should we have taken them? But I can only hope he takes away from it a want to avoid violence and a desire to be kind to others.

After the killing caves was much more enjoyable experience of a couple of stops to take in the views and visit a couple of temples. At one of the temples there was a cave with a Buddha in, Lego Boy obviously still a bit shook up took some persuasion to enter but was rewards with views of bats up close for his bravery.

Soon it was time to head back down for the main event the bats. Operaite the caves enterance are a collection of bar joisteling for your custom. We picked the appropriately name bat bar as it had an balcony giving great views and also removed us from the busy street side. It was of course western prices but that was to be expected. We ordered some dinner and drinks and settled down ready for the bats.

They just started as a few but so they streamed out… and out… and out! For over 35mins! I can’t even guess how many. With classical music playing in the background and the constantly twisting and turning dance of the bats it was a very relaxing end to another great day in Battambang.

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