After yesterday’s mammoth journey we have a relatively slow start today. We have a few days to explore Battambang and the surrounding area. You could probably do it in 2 days but we have the luxury of time.
We staying in Ramchang guesthouse which is further out of town than we were expecting but for the benefit of a pool and a very reasonable price it worked for us. The rooms are good size and the beds are clean. It’s very basic and a bit run down in places but perfectly adequate for our needs. The menu had many western dishes so the kids were happy. Food service was on the slow side but the laundry service was stupidly quick. The best thing about Ramchang is Dmur the tut tut driver who is usually outside. He made our time in Battambang with fantastic English spoken in a deep mid west American accent and he was always happy to help. We took two trips with him and I would definitely recommend him to any family wanting to explore Battambang.


The first trip started at Wat Ek Phnom. The ruins of an 11th century temple. Middle man turned into a mini Indiana Jones exploring the ruins. I’m sure a risk assessment would have banned such activities but thankfully the hefty sandstone blocks stayed in their precarious positions and we left with no injuries. After our visit I read that the temple was a place of pilgrimage for women wanting to conceive 😱 I hope the powers that be do not miss understand my visit.






Dmur kept saying he is not a guide but he constantly was asking questions of locals and translating their knowledge for us. We enjoyed a tasty Sugar Kane drink overlooking a lily an lotus flower filled resouvior before heading to our next stop on the tour.

Snake flavoured rice wine anyone? It’s fair to say Lego Boy and Middle Man were not fans! As we entered the small dark roadside hut and the heat from the fires hit you. Inside we saw how the throat burning liqueur was made from the drying of the rice through the heating and fermentation process to the final product. At 45% proof this local delaciey definitely left an impression on the boys! Middle man announced he is never going to drink alcohol… hmm I may have to remind him of that statement in a few years!


Just round the corner was our next stop another hut but a bit bigger and definitely more airy. The produce of this hut was much more to the boys taste. Again a big fire in the center of the room but this time being used to heat two round hot plates. A toothless old lady smiling relentlessly at my blond hair boys was systematically spreading a white paste into the hot plates and seconds later removing the now very fine pancake like disc that once dried would be rice paper. Each disc was put on a rolling pin like tube on a spinning wheel. A younger lady then took them off the rolling pins tubes and carefully laid them out to dry on woven bamboo trays.
Both ladies so well practiced at there tasks that they didn’t take their smiling eyes of my blond hair boys the whole time! Even managing to pass the boys fruit and pinch their cheeks without breaking rythem. The fresh hot salty rice paper was a hit with the boys. The trip obviously made its mark on Lego boy who that lunch proudly connected the rice paper with his spring rolls.
We continued along the bumpy muddy potholed tracks, passing huts and small dwellings. Middle Man turns to us and asks “are we in Zambia Daddy?”, I can see why he asked. Cambodia is obviously poorer than neighbouring Thailand and it definitely as a similar feel to our old home in Zambia.

The last stop was a rather stomach churning visit to a fish market! Piles of fish parts from head to fins, blood running everywhere, the constant thud of axe hitting chopping board, the air thick with the smell of fish meant it was definitely an assault on the senses. As fascinating as the place was, with its vats of maggot made fish paste (another local delicacy) I was relived to leave. Definitely an eye opening experience.



We headed back to the guest house for a quick swim and some dinner before today’s main event! The highly recommend circus! A charity run organisation who schools youngsters in the arts, music, painting and acrobatics are all taught alongside a more traditional education.
Middle man in particular enjoyed the whole experience! No doubt being inspired to take his current rolling, climbing, jumping, antics to the next level. As a boy who currently spends most of his time either upside down or throwing himself off heights it was right up his street! The acrobatics were fantastic and the whole show was a feast for the eyes!



Day one in Cambodia had definitely made the border crossing worth while. An eye opening, entertaining, and exhausting day meant it ended with 2 out of 3 boys asleep on the tut tut ride home.
Full marks to you Annie for giving us this entertaining running commentary on your 5 week adventure. Many thanks – and keep ’em coming! xxxxx
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Thanks Nan!
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