The smoke that thunders

This time last year our time in Zambia was coming to an end, but there was still on major bucket list item to complete… Victoria Falls! Ok so we had already been a couple of times but never in flood. Being Easter we were hoping water levels will be much higher than they were in December!

We took the normal route down the dreaded Chingola road, stopping just north of Lusaka, followed by another long drive the next day. But the car behaved it’s self and the trip was now so familiar it seemed easy.

I never thought I would say a two day drive with the kids “seemed easy” but there you go. Almost two years of self drives on this massive continent have increased my idea of normal journey time. But still it was a long drive just to see a waterfall, would it be worth it? It is one of The Seven Natural Wonders Of The World after all, so surely it will be.

We decided to stay at the waterfront again, it is really close to the falls, has a great little campsite and a pool for the boys. Even driving to the campsite it was evident that the falls would definitely have a lot of water, the swollen river filling what were fields and bush on our last visit and in the distance mist rising from the falls. You can see how it gets it’s name “the smoke that thunders” and we were still kilometers away.

Eager to get to the falls we packed up the car with waterproofs, plastic bags and spare clothes. We pulled into the car park and paid our entrance fee, the sound of the falls already in our ears.

As you enter, you pass through a small tropical forest the sound turns from a rumbled to a thunder. This mini rain-forest is only there because of the spray from the falls. As we left the shelter of the forest the spray hit us, it was as if we had walked into a rainstorm. The kids were reluctant to get wet but it soon became clear to them there was no other option.

At first we couldn’t see anything. But then wind parted the mist and… wow what a view! The massive wall of rock we had seen only weeks before was now alive with falling water. It truly is a magnificent site and one I struggle to put into words.

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Dec 16 compared with same spot Mar 17

Seconds later the view vanished and we were back in the mist. We walked slowly (it was quite slippy) along the path getting wetter and wetter, the boys giggles growing stronger and stronger. Lego Boy stops “mummy my wellies are full” and sure enough they were overflowing. It was warm and the waterproof clothing was obviously pointless so we stripped the boys down to their shorts and T-shirts and packed away the dripping rain coats, barefoot and half dressed we continued on to the next look out.

The gusts of wind gave us occasional but amazing views of waterfall. I really wish I had taken a waterproof camera because it’s very hard to use a phone through a zip lock bag. But hey we still got some wonderful shots.

The highlight for the boys was the bridge. Probably the worst bit for me as I really don’t like heights. It was seriously slippery and impossible to walk on without holding the side… but the boys soon found it made an excellent slide. They must have spent at least 30 mins climbing up the the slight slope then whizzing back down. I must admit it was fun and with the mist swirling around I could kinda pretend it wasn’t that high up.

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The entrance to the bridge/slide

The excitement was obviously to much for baby blue who was asleep on the husbands back before the end of the short walk. Sound asleep and soaking wet!

Continuing the soaking wet theme playing in the campsite pool 

The boys were keen to see crocodiles up close and personal! Livingston crocodile farm defiantly provided that (in a way that is slightly terrifying for any mother). There are raised wooden platforms where you can literally get within cm of sleeping crocodiles and for a small fee you can see some crocodiles been hand fed. The boys loved it, seeing these super fast and super strong animals jump feet into the air in front of there faces was fun and again terrifying. With only what looks like way too flimsy chicken wire between my boys faces and those snapping jaws I must admit I was on edge. But not the boys, they laughed and squealed with surprise with every snap.

This would be our final trip to Livingston so we decide to be proper tourists and join a tour package. A morning safari and sunset cruise on the mighty Zambezi. I have lost count of the number of self drive safaris we have been on and although this one didn’t really produce in terms of animal sighting, the boys loved being in a safari truck! Climbing all over it and even sitting on the front. Luckily we had the whole thing to ourselves so the noise (probably why we didn’t see much) didn’t annoy any other tourists. We did seen a lone giraffe which is a sight I will never get board of, is the reason husband managed to convince me to leave the comfort and security of the uk, is now for me a symbol of my life in Zambia, and is now a permanent part of me.

The sunset cruise was the perfect way to finish our last family holiday on Zambian soil. Free flowing alcohol, beautiful views, happy climbing children, and the beautiful setting of an African sun.

This was last holiday in Zambia, the last long road trip in our car and the last time using the tent. Both tent and car had been battered and abused by our adventures. The tent showing clear scars from its meetings with monkeys, jackets, baboons and floods, but I was gonna miss it! So many memories made living under its blue canvas. The car had way more bumps and scratches than when we bought it, so many parts had been replaced I have lost count and the engine rebuilt twice, it had been emotionally and financially a real pain the ass but it had also been our wagon for many fantastic trips and without it there is no way we would have explored so much of Southern Africa. The bumper stickers of Namibia, Botswana, South Africa, and Mozambique testament to its many miles. Despite all the trouble it has caused I will miss it also.

 

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